July 15 (day 76) to July 19 (day 80) – Yarmouth, Whale Cove, Annapolis Royal, and Grand-Pre

At the suggestion of a Nova Scotia Bluegrass Band we headed to Yarmouth for a looksee with a couple of nights at what else, Campers Haven!  We spent more time in the hinterlands than in Yarmouth and that suited us just fine.  This is Acadian country with a flavor all its own left over and nurtured since the early 1600s and beyond.  When we took a cruise on the Danube River some years ago one tour guide told us we were on an ABC cruise – translated, Another Beautiful Church.  Our time in Newfoundland and Nova Scotia could best be described as an ABH trip – Another Beautiful Harbor.  Our drive over to a fine example of an historic Acadian village – Le Village Historique Acadian de la Nouvelle-Ecosse - took us past many more.  The rebuilt structures and local living history staff of Acadian decent were nothing short of excellent, a real sleeper.  We were treated by welcoming staff who told us all about fishing, how standard fishing dories were made that could stack on the deck of a large sailing ship, the critical work of the blacksmith, farming practices, and normal homes where they had the wood stoves hot and offering fresh samples of molasses cookies and a potato fueled staple, Rappie Pie. Ummmmm good.

Living history of an historic Acadian village

Leaving Camper’s Haven we made our way to The Bay of Fundy once again and on to a 40 mile long narrow peninsula between The Bay of Fundy and St. Marys Bay with the goal of pursuing whales off Brier Island at the very tip.  We were not disappointed when we boarded a Zodiac with 7 others and soon after spotted Foggy and her calf, a Humpback whale and her yearling.  Foggy had been found near here in 2013 tangled in fishing ropes with a limited future, but later released by special equipment handled by the Provincial Fishery folks.  These experiences are normally enough to keep individual whales away for the rest of their lives, but this year she returned with a calf – good karma!  We were up close and personal with a number of whales and to watch a critter of this gigantic size glide through the water with such proficiency and grace was impressive.  Way cool even for whale watchers with experience! 

Whale watching near Brier Island in the survival suits they make you wear on the zodiac boat rides

hiking along seal cove on Brier Island

Annapolis Royal was yet another historical fort (another one!?) that we approached with caution, yet Ft. Anne National Historic Site offered up a story of 7 changes between French and British occupations during the tense wars over who would dominate the Maritime Provinces and the huge fishery in the 1600 and 1700s.  We went away with a renewed sense of awe and appreciation for the history of this place.  Right there in the midst of town was a German bakery where we topped off our day with a fine German supper and a couple of cool ones!  Not done yet, Michele made her way to the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens and I hung out with the girls.

Annapolis historic gardens

We have been traveling the Evangeline Trail, so named for a heroine in a Longfellow poem who rose up during the Acadian deportations. We just finished a tour of another Parks Canada Historic and Unesco World Heritage Site, Landscape of Grand Pre’ National Historic Site where we stumbled onto Acadian Days at Grand Pre’.  This was the annual celebration and reunion of ancestors of Acadians who pioneered this broad area and then were deported when they remained neutral expressing no allegiance to either France or Britain.  The Acadians made a firm, sustaining foothold generations long, but when the British required them to swear an allegiance to the King many refused.  Even those who did were not considered trustworthy since they made their living by farming and selling their excess harvest to English and French alike.  Over an 8 year period some 10,000 Acadians were summarily deprived of their property; deported on ships bound for France, the American Colonies, New Orleans and the Caribbean; and their homes and other structures torched to prohibit reoccupation.  Over time many returned, but the hard work that established their former presence had disappeared with others now occupying their former homeland.  Today was truly an opportunity to celebrate all things Acadian and we were pleased to celebrate with them. Check out this clip of an Acadian folk music quartet (Cy) that performed for us.
                       

Grand-Pre National Historic site and Port Royal NHS honoring the Acadian legacy