As we headed south on the Avalon peninsula, we noticed a
change in scenery, from tree covered mountains to barren, tundra-like
landscapes. We learned these are the
Hyper-oceanic barrens, a distinct ecoregion found only in the exposed headlands
in eastern Newfoundland – striking vistas.
We took a guided hike to see the Mistaken Point fossils, a unique site
where fossils from the first stirrings of complex life on earth more than 550
million years ago were preserved in shale underneath volcanic ash, and became
exposed as shifting continents pushed the ocean’s floor to the surface. These marine creatures are collectively known
as Ediacaran biota, and are some of the earliest animal organisms known – more
than 300 million years before dinosaurs!
It was exciting to be within inches of these fascinating fossils. The site is under review for UNESCO world
heritage status, and we think it is certainly worthy.
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Mistaken Point fossils - after a 3 km hike including a stream crossing! |
Our next stop, celebrating Michele’s birthday, was to visit
Cape Mary’s Ecological Reserve where thousands of pelagic birds come to
breed. 15,000 pairs of Northern Gannet along
with 9000+ juveniles were nesting within a few feet of us, along with thousands
of nesting Common Murre and Black-legged Kittiwake. It was fascinating to watch
their behaviors and observe the ‘layering’ of nesting species – Common Murre
lowest and laying eggs directly on the cliff ledges, with Kittiwake’s beside
and above them on nests, and the Gannets at the top of the cliffs on their
nests. They co-exist peacefully, that is
until a bald eagle comes by looking for a meal!
We also saw several Black Guillemot, Thick-billed Murre, Comorants, and
even a few of the less common Razorbills.
The sheer number of birds so close to us was truly incredible and the
din was musical as they squabbled, sought their mates, stumbled through each
others’s space, and talked to their chicks. We learned this is one of the
largest breeding colonies of these birds in the world.
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Northern Gannets, up close and personal - beautiful birds! |
We’re now camped in an RV park in Argentia, Newfoundland
where we’ll say goodbye to this beautiful province tomorrow afternoon and board
the 16 hour ferry back to North Sydney, Nova Scotia to continue our adventure
there. This province has exceeded our
expectations – with unbeatable scenery, glaciers, wildlife, history, and a
wonderful culture. They say that
Newfoundlanders are some of the friendliest people you’ll meet, and our experience
has been no exception.
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Saltbox houses - a Newfoundland standard |
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Lots of lighthouses on this island |
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A typical Newfoundland coastal village -- this one is Ferryland |
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Our Newfoundland adventure is almost over as we wait for the ferry |
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